After seeing pictures of Lindsay Lohan when she was sentenced to 90 days in jail plus rehab this past July, many people raised an eyebrow at her appearance. At just 24, she looked swollen, sallow, exhausted—older. Granted, the woman has had ha hard couple of years. But even those without addictions and ankle bracelets are at risk too. Many of us are so busy obsessing over little lines that we ignore other signs of aging that can be prevented or repaired with a few easy adjustments. So what could be wreaking havoc on your face? Here’s what to watch out for, along with no-brainer ways to turn back the clock.A Dull ComplexionSure, sure, by now you probably know that skipping your daily skin care routine can make you zitty, but can it also make you look older? Unfortunately, yes. “If you’re not cleansing your skin on a regular basis, dead skin cells start to accumulate on the surface,” says Diane Berson, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at Weill Medical College at Cornell University. All those unsloughed cells block the work of moisturizers and anti-aging creams and make your skin look lackluster, according to Rolanda Johnson, Ph.D., senior scientist at Procter & Gamble Beauty. And if that’s not skeevy enough, “research has shown that free radicals in the environment can react with remaining dirt and oil to damage and age skin over time,” says Johnson.
Solution:
Take your skin care as seriously as your pedicure colors. “We cut corners, but we should be giving our skin as much attention as we give our other external features, like hair, nails and teeth,” says Jody Alpert Levine, M.D., a New York City dermatologist. If you don’t have time to wash your face in the morning, do at least a quick sweep of toner. And after a long day, “you definitely need to wash your face, whether you wore makeup or not,” says Dr. Levine. “There is always sebum produced and outside pollutants to wash off.” Don’t stop there: Gentle exfoliation a couple of times a week is a must for young, healthy skin. Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D., co-director of the Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser Surgery in Washington, D.C., gives these guidelines to de-gunk pores: “For sensitive skin, just rub a wet washcloth over your face in a circular motion for a minute or two; a couple of times a week is enough. Oily skin types can use a glycolic exfoliator on a daily basis, and normal skin can use one up to three times a week.” Dr. Berson is a fan of electric cleansing brushes to mechanically exfoliate every day; try one with a bit of your favorite face wash.
Pesky Dark Spots
The most likely cause of brown spots is our good old friend and foe: the sun. UV rays can trigger an overproduction of melanin in the skin, and the effect on your appearance is every bit as aging as wrinkles. Shockingly, a 2009 study done on facial aging in identical twins found that different amounts of sun exposure made the more sun-damaged sibling look as much as 10 years older! “A lot of what we call aging is actually photo-aging from the sun,” says Dr. Berson. But first of all, what does a sunspot look like? Basically, it’s a big freckle that’s symmetrical and all one color, as opposed to skin cancers, which generally have asymmetry, irregular borders, color changes and a diameter larger than six millimeters, or about a quarter of an inch.
Solution:
Wear sunscreen, folks. “Some people think if the damage was done in their teens, Why bother with sunscreen now?” says Dr. Tanzi. “This is a serious mistake, because sun damage is cumulative—it’s never too late to regularly use an SPF of at least 30.”
And there are ways to deal with the damage you already have, too. “Once you’re in your thirties, everybody has some pigmentation that shows up from sun damage that happened before you were 18,” says Dr. Levine. “It’s easy to add a toner to your daily routine. Look for lightening agents like kojic acid, arbutin, emblica or hydroquinone, which can even out your skin tone.” Using a dark-spot treatment will do the trick too. Hyperpigmentation also frequently occurs in dark-skinned people in response to inflammation or hormones. These lighteners will tackle those spots, which can darken from sun exposure, says Dr. Levine. Just don’t forget to keep them in check with your daily dose of sunscreen.
Major Dryness
It’s no coincidence that the dude who represents the harshest season of the year is called Old Man Winter—chilly weather is brutal on the skin. The cold air and arid indoor heat break down your skin’s protective barrier, making it blotchy, flaky, older-seeming. “A youthful glow is all about luminosity,” says Dr. Levine. “Dry, rough, scaly skin stops light in its tracks.”
Solution:
For dewy, I-just-got-a-facial skin year-round, get a good moisturizer that’s right for you. “If you have normal to acne-prone skin, look for a light, noncomedogenic lotion,” says Dr. Tanzi. Oily skin types can get away with just swiping on serum. For those with super-dry complexions, Tanzi recommends rich hydrators with shea butter, petrolatum or dimethicone. And don’t forget to hydrate at night, too. Before bed, smear on an anti-aging night moisturizer to do double duty.
If you’re already religious about face cream (yay, you!) but still suffer from parched skin, your diet could be to blame. Overloading on carbohydrates and sweets can add years to skin’s appearance. “Excess sugar binds to proteins, which results in damage to elastin and collagen,” says Dr. Levine. “That makes your skin dry, brittle and less springy.” So instead of that third cupcake—we’re channeling your mother here—munch on skin-protecting antioxidants like those found in green tea, berries, and dark-colored vegetables such as kale, beets and broccoli.
Puffy Eye Bags
You might not experience these till your forties or beyond—but in this world, many women get them earlier, and they can make you look older than you are.
Solution:
Spending more time in the sack could help. “Chronic fatigue leads to overproduction of stress hormones, which creates an inflammatory response in your skin,” says Dr. Tanzi. “Getting at least seven hours of sleep a night would be fantastic. Two or three consecutive nights of good sleep can make a huge difference, but even one night is helpful.” The way you snooze also impacts puffiness. “If you sleep on your stomach or on your side, fluid can accumulate under the skin around the eyes,” says Dr. Berson. “Try to sleep on your back with your head elevated on an extra pillow to drain any excess.” It’s worth a shot—the more often you do it, the easier it is for gravity to work. A fix for morning emergencies: “Stick a wet washcloth in the freezer for 15 minutes, then use it as a cool compress,” says Dr. Tanzi. Another trick: Try an eye treatment with a roller ball applicator to help the product sink in deeper. It mimics the action of patting on cream with your finger, but does it faster.
Dark Circles
While your skin is doing the whole growing-old-gracefully thing, the under-eye area slowly darkens from a natural loss of fat stores. Eventually, that leads to hollowness and a shadowy effect. But in your twenties and thirties, dark circles can be attributed to three things: genetics, allergies or yo-yo dieting.
Solution:
First, rule out genetics. “Certain ethnicities, like those from India or the Middle East, have increased pigment under the eye,” says Dr. Tanzi. “In those cases, laser procedures can help, but they come with a recovery period of weeks or even months.” If genetics aren’t the issue, allergies may again be the culprit. If you have them, resist the urge to rub when your eyes get itchy. “Skin builds up pigment in response to rubbing,” says Dr. Levine. Minimize dark circles from allergies in the same way you’d treat under-eye bags—with cold compresses, antihistamines and allergen-reducing pillow covers.
Are none of the above scenarios sounding like you? Check your eating habits. Dark circles could be due to dramatic weight shifts from dieting. “Fat loss on the face can make you look drawn and older,” says Dr. Berson. Also, rapid weight gain or loss can have a bad impact on your skin overall, leading to a decrease in elasticity that ages you noticeably. The bottom line: Moderation is key. Keep weight loss to a sane pace of one to two pounds a week, cut back on late nights, curb your sweet tooth and stick with your daily skin care ritual, no matter how tired you are. Oh, and keep your driver’s license handy—these healthy habits just might get you carded.
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